The Month of May: Part I

"Among the changing months, May stands confest The sweetest and in fairest colors dressed." James Thomson, the poet, said it right.  May was a beautiful month in Moldova. Cool mornings, sunny days, warm afternoons.  Vitamin D in its natural form has once again been captured by "bronze-makers" like me that like to bask in the sun.

At the beginning of May, my computer decided to crash on me.  I had forgotten how directly related my work is to a computer.  Communication, documents, internet research, more online communication, blog entries for the few loyal readers I have…  all these tasks require a functioning laptop/internet.  I lucked out, as our IT specialist helped recover files on my broken hard drive and replace it with a new drive.  I hope it doesn't happen again!

The month of May included Easter celebrations, project work, and a lot of traveling.   I tried to document well the cultural aspects to share with you, so I'm going to post a few different entries.

Easter

Easter in Moldova is one of the country's most celebrated holidays.  People wake up on Sunday morning hours before dawn, go to the Orthodox church, stand outside of it for an hour or so, and wait until the priest comes to bless their basket of Easter goods.  Lindsey and I participated as well.  Afterwards, people go back to their families and have a small masa (eat and drink!) before going back to bed for a few hours.  Sunday Easter is supposed to be the ultimate day of rest, but the Monday following is a big celebration.  (Ours was a little bit reversed.)

Preparing our basket at 2:30 in the morning.

Baskets outside the church at 3:30 am.

 We celebrated with my host family after a few hours of sleeping.  (My host mom said to come tomorrow, and I thought she met after a good night's (or morning's) rest.  We came a day early, but of course we were still welcomed with open arms and more food than we could have ever wanted.  It's so refreshing to be able to be outside again for masas!

Memorial Easter

The weekend after Easter in Moldova is Memorial Easter, where people honor their deceased loved ones.  They go to the cemetery and make a masa at the gravesite of their loved ones.  Many people dress up for this, and many family members away from their hometown come home for this event.  I went to the north  of Moldova with my old host family from last summer.  I always enjoy spending time with them, and it's even better now when I can understand (almost) all they are saying.  In the village, we arrived on a Sunday morning and prepared food all day.  Monday morning, we took all of our celebratory foods and gifts (for the deceased and those attending) to the cemetery.  Here, we met all the aunts and uncles and family members.  We waited for an hour until the priest came by and showered the site and people with holy water.  Then we could eat to our heart's contentment the blessed food that we had prepared the day before. 

Preparing food to take to the cemetery (sarmale- well-seasoned rice (sometimes with meat) wrapped up in grape leaves or lettuce leaves and cooked)

Monday morning, Memorial Easter in the cemetery.

Gifts, food, wine, and flowers cover the gravesites.  It's also a time when people can see long-time acquaintances who no longer live in the village.

Stefan was thirsty. It was hot.

Carolina, Stefan, and Stela.  Family, even here, is irreplaceable.

The goofball uncles and the boys.

Fun uncle.

Barbecue after a few hours in the cemetery

The village house, where my host mom and her 4 siblings were raised.  Masa outdoors!

Croatia

I'm kind of a spoiled volunteer.  I do try to work hard though and because of this and a bit of good luck, I have had incredible opportunities to travel with work.  This month, I had the chance to go to Croatia for 10 days.  It was an incredible trip as always.  This year is simply one-of-a-kind for a girl from Nebraska, living in Moldova.  What brought me to Croatia was an apparent training on entrepreneurship.  I wish I could say I learned a lot, was inspired to be an entrepreneur all the more, learned how to better train entrepreneurs, and understood even more, in the European context, the challenges and opportunities of entrepreneurship.  My expectations were not met by this training.  Maybe I've been too well educated and focused on entrepreneurship here that nothing seemed new.  Some of the activities we did were things I've already done with my students in Causeni (creating a fake business, utilizing SWOT Analysis,  working through a marketing plan, testing individual creativity, etc.).  I was hoping to come away with some more concrete information and tips for training young entrepreneurs but received very little.   So that was the disappointment of the trip.  The upside? The people and the culture! The participants who were at the training course were from many different parts of Europe, and it's always interesting and educational to be around those from different countries.  I also participated in the training with another young woman, Cristina, from Chisinau.  We didn't know each other all too well before the trip, but I can say now after spending a few solid days together, we know each other quite well and for that I'm quite thankful.  She's the type of Moldovan that gives me hope and comfort when thinking about the future of this country.  She's smart, forward-thinking, realistic, and action-oriented. To add to that, she always could make me smile and laugh at ourselves and at the situations in which we found ourselves.  

Cristina and I with a delicious cheese cake and espresso.  

Participants in the training through the European Commission's Youth in Action Programme (Lithuania, Macedonia, The Netherlands, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova, & Turkey were represented)

Croatian culture reminded me a bit of Italy.  People appear to be a bit lazy (but Croats swear they aren't) because they love meeting for a coffee or two (which could last 2-3+ hours- a Croat told me that's truly normal).  They love delicious big meals with lots of meat, generally speaking.  They are becoming more well-known for their wines, and they like to end their evenings with perhaps a beer or two or three.  Fine food and beverages- I can get behind that.  What was also surprising is the number of English speakers.  From older adults to youth, most every native I encountered spoke some English, if not quite well.  I also found the people to be very warm and open to tourists.

We spent all but one day in Zagreb, the capital city.  We took a day trip to Plitvice National Park, a natural forest flowing with waterfalls and lakes.  This gorgeous place  is a top spot for tourists in Croatia and with good reason.  It brought me back to the time when I lived in the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho, only more tourists.  The waters were still and serene and flowing from one lake to another. 

What I also enjoyed about my stay was meeting people spontaneously and learning this and that about the Balkan's and beyond.  For example, I learned through our new couchsurfing friend that Kosovo seems to share similar characteristics of life in Moldova: people working abroad, remittances sent back home, poor infrastructure, high unemployment, etc.  I was reminded how war and politics, intertwined with religion, can damage lives, change culture, and have lasting impacts on future generations.  I was reminded also how people are just people, and at the end of the day, we all just want to be treated as humans with respect, love, and care.  That's a possibility that we can all attain if we all wish.  Traveling always leaves one pondering...

We happened to have a nice afternoon coffee and meal with two World Bank employees, covering payments for development projects in Northern Africa and the Middle East.  We met a nice gentleman on our first bus ride from the airport into the city.  On the last full day we were there, we recognized his face on the street and ended up sitting down for coffee and then Italian food (why not?).  As I have always had an interest in development work and specifically through international institutions like the World Bank, I found myself in a perfect place to ask some questions.  What I came to find out is that my hesitations to follow the development work trail may be a good thing for me.  Although they reassured me there should be a place for me at the World Bank (after I get a master's degree), they also assured me that the first month will be greusome and that it's not like a 9-5 job.  They work moreso 7am until 7pm with their heads left foggy at the end of every day.  I told them about the World Bank economist I met in Moldova once, who honestly and bravely laid out the truth:  "The majority of development work fails."  As romantically pleasing as the notion of development work sounds to any peace-loving, warm-hearted person, this quote is going to stick with me for a while.  (even as a PCV in a small town in Moldova.)  Returning to the time with our new acquaintances, the two gentlemen were so kind, smart, and light-hearted.  It was a refreshing afternoon, and I learned a thing or two about their countries of origin as well (Tunisia and Lebanon).

For lack of time/words, I will leave you with a couple photos from the enchanting Plitvice National Park and return soon to inform you of other happenings in May before I left for Croatia.  There were many (including a computer crash).

Plitvice National Park

Streams of living water...  I want to jump in!

Plop-Stiubei: A Village Full of History

I had the opportunity to visit this small village of 900 people called Plop-Stiubei.  Plop is this type of tree.  Stiube is a bee hive house.  The village was named after people who would meet near the point where there were a bunch of "plop's" and a "stiube" or two.  Thus, the village was named.  

During World War II, the community was invaded by German troops.  As we walked past the church in the center of town, my guide (a local consultant of ACSA) Andrei told me that in the steeple of the church would stand a Nazi watchman sniper to watch out for any incoming soldiers of the Russian army.  They were stationed a few kilometers away in the forest.  Eventually, it's been said that a Moscovan sniper shot the watchman in the steeple, and the Germans left after a while, leaving the town destroyed with only 2 homes still standing.  

World War II Monument

A map of where weapons/soldiers were facing during World War II.

Down this valley is where Causeni is located.

We visited this school where these boys showed off their recent treasures from exploring their town.

Lots of shells from World War II!  

We visited the Economic Credit Association in town.  Andrei, my host for the day, is the Director.  With a 24% interest rate for its members, high like most lending agencies (banks too), it makes it really hard for farmers to invest in anything long-term.  The time to pay back is usually less than 2 years. (I'm looking for people to skype with who might be able to consult the organization- please let me know if you're interested and able!)

Country road... take me home.

I randomly attended a meeting in the mayor's office with members of the community and staff from the fiscal office of the  State.  I think the fiscal office staff were mandated to appear in the village, and a few community members were convinced to come.  They voiced their (all negative) opinions about the lack of social services for medical care or the elderly and received no sympathy.  And that was that. 

Important meeting with the mayor.  Champagne, bread, pretzels, chocolate, and little fishies.   Okay!  This guy had an "extraordinary idea" that would turn the economy around in his town...  something called investment tourism.  If you're interested please let me know.  I'm a little skeptical and confused, but I'll do my best to help.

Moldovan hospitality has got to be some of the best in the world.  

The church (steeple reconstructed in the last 20 years)

Orthodox Easter is almost here!

Plop-Stiubei church and water well.  I like the well design.

The old school house.  And some goats.

Photos from Italy

I'm a bit slow at posting all of my photos from last month's adventures outside of Moldova, but here is a collection of images of the beauty I found in Italy.  If only I could express it with an Italian accent and express to you the comfortable pace of life there (at least for those of us on vacation).  I'm certain, though, that Italians rubbed off on us, too.

Rome.  All roads lead to Rome.

Rome. The Eternal City.

Republican Square, Rome.

Why not get a little lost in this cute place?

Trevi Fountain

St. Peter's Basilica (Vatican City)

Vatican

Just outside the Fortress Sant'Angelo

One of many rather unmarked buildings with beautiful art. Rome.

Colosseum.  Construction began in 70 AD.

Colosseum

Big gate doors.

We detoured to where most tourists don't go.  To the large bigbox Italian gourmet food store, Eataly.

Inside Eataly, we found some tasty beer (Dogfish Head Indian Ale!), cheese, and bread.

The Pantheon.  Soft rain was falling in through the hole you see.  It was beautiful.

The Roman Forum on a rainy day.

Colosseum

Italian rural countryside near Fara in Sabina.

A farm girl's dream, Italian style. An olive orchard, a vineyard, an old farmhouse and miles of green countryside.

Tired from grand adventures in Rome, this was the best hiatus from the traveling rush we could have ever asked for.

Our home in Florence, where the Renaissance began.

Florence.  As one local told us, this river is an integral part of Florence.  It signifies the life and health of the city and its inhabitants.

Siena, a medieval-aged city outside of Florence in the region of Toscana. 

Everywhere you look, there seemed to be something simple, yet complex, and captivating.

Siena Cathedral

Traveling through Yerevan & Languages

What I love about this video is that I did not dub the music on top.  I believe it's Armenian music (not Russian?) that was playing in our microbus.  You'll notice that the road is very nicely paved (unlike what you might find in Chisinau).  But a local told us there was recently a political election in the city, so the roads in the last while had been repaired and improved quite a bit.

The Armenian alphabet is so different and so interesting to me.  I also enjoy listening to Armenian being spoken. To me, the sounds are raw and throaty but yet such a low, soft, rolling song with every sentence.   Languages are so interesting and beautiful to me, displaying the diversity of life and complexity of how cultures and civilizations transform the way people speak.  I found this interesting article from the Wall Street Journal about whether language influences thoughts and thus culture.  Cognitive research in the last few years suggests it does.  

One experience I had last fall (just when I thought I was getting good at Romanian!) involved simple small talk with a young gentleman.  He asked me about where I was from, what I'm doing here in Moldova, and where I live... And then, he threw me for a loop.  He asked me, "Se primește?"  I knew what it meant.  It meant, "To receive itself?"  I asked him to repeat, and he said it again.  I had no response.  I really didn't know how to respond to that, and thus he scowled and scolded, wandering how in the world I could survive in this country not knowing how to respond to the question, "to receive itself."  It turns out that it's a direct translation into Romanian from Russian, and it means something like, how do you receive it here?  How's it going here for you?  I didn't know much Russian at all then and still don't know much now.  Inevitably, there will always be things I miss from my lack of context from spoken languages here.

Skiing in Tsaghkadzor, Armenia

I'm no expert in skiing and have skied less than a handful of times in my life actually.  Thus, although this video may make you dizzy, I'm pretty proud to show you my zig-zaggy view from the mountain in Tsaghkadzor, Armenia.  It was truly beautiful.  Being a girl from a farm in western Nebraska, I absolutely love open spaces that leave me with plenty of fresh air to breathe in freely.  Nebraska offers perfect sunsets across a flat plain, leaving you with feelings of joy, contentment and freedom.  The top of this mountain left me with the same feelings.  The view was expansive.  I could see for miles. There were very few other skiers on the mountain, an extra plus. Our training was held in the ski resort town at the base of this mountain.

In addition to that, we decided to ski the morning of International Women's Day, highly celebrated in much of the world (but for the United States perhaps).  We women were welcomed with congratulations by the ski rental staff and told we could ski for free for the day!  We paid maybe 2 dollars to go on the second lift up to a higher point on the mountain, but the skis and the first lift for free!  I did indeed feel honored that day.

Matej from Slovakia teaching Kate from Georgia how to walk up the mountain with skis.

Beautiful place called Tsaghkadzor, Armenia

Armenian Women Making Lavosh

One tourist stop in a small village in Armenia was of these women making lavosh (which is like a big tortilla).  I have never tasted any lavosh soo good!